In the begining of April we’ve visited Riga Fashion Week once again. Of course, within the years of our friendship with this event, both of us have already chosen our own favorites, but we’re also always ready for a new discoveries. What was so special in fall-winter 2016 collections? We decided to show it in a new way – sharing each his own opinion. Let’s see, if husband and wife do always have the same point of view?
Ksusha: Frankly speaking, I was really afraid to see this collection after a fenomenal success of a previous one. But they absolutely nailed it once again! Of course, the presentation itself was really appealing – models were wondering through the hall like a drunk students on their first party. It was like a theater, presenting the collection with the right mood. The clothes also looked a bit relaxed and deliberately sleazy. I liked those 80es style shimmery dresses with boots and ordinary jackets most of all. Oh yes, and that amazing origamy-style shapes, that I’ve first fallen in love half a year ago. They weren’t that accented this season, but were really remarcable and notable.
Lesha: Nolo is my favorite show of the season. Was doing my best to remember, if I’ve ever seen their shows before, but failed. That’s why this time was watching without any expectations and opinion. And received only the best emotions! Starting form the presentation (such an agressive performance feels closer to me, that a traditional peaceful one), an outstanding styling work and a variety of interesting clothes – everything was perfect. A+.
Ksusha: Somehow this was the most emotional show for me. I don’t know if it’s because of the cosy Anna’s studio in the middle of a beautiful street, where it was held, or due to a possitive vibes of dancing models and many familiar faces among the guests? She devoted the collection to 80es, but turned the style to look really feminine and romantic, without the traditional grunge mood. I really loved how the closes were combined in the looks – would have weared everything just like that!
Lesha: Anna herself is so open-hearted and pleasant woman. But I’m absolutely indifferent about her works. The highlights of this collection for me were the knitted clothes and the delicate, calm colors, that are rare guests in Riga.
Lesha: I can’t remain objective while speaking about Sasha Westfal. It’s hard to judge a person, whom you’ve known for ages and really eager to cheer up. And it couldn’t be different, cause Sasha is such a nice, likable person. And returning to the show – clean, minimalistic and cool. Especially those glass wings.
Ksusha: Sasha makes modern, correct clothes. They are multifunctional, not banal and, as she always does, are made in a comfy colors – grey, black and white. Sometimes I feel, like she’s playing it too safe with all those silhouettes and applications, while others prefer to shock and go crazy. On the other hand, there should be some balanced minimalists to come to after getting tired from all those trash-designers. By the way, in that case you are not even meant to wait for half a year – Sasha decided to start the sales right after the show. Following Tom Ford?
Lesha: Watching Riga Fashion Week shows after the long pause was really exciting. Some of the brands appeared to be really different. One of them was Narciss, whose show was definitely one of my favorites. Inspired by New York and graffity, cool styling and teenage philosophy – it just couldn’t be not impressing. And it wasn’t.
Ksusha: Intriguing story behind the collection does always make it more fascinating. Alice Trautmane, the designer behind Narciss, is graduating from Parsons in NY this year, so she was inspired by this city and local graffity-artist Jan-Michel Basquiat. Though with the last I kinda expected more, than received, because they promised famous works by the artist overthought by Alice, but in reality there weren’t any active prints at all, most of the clothes were made in one color and the rare prints were hardly notable at all. But what was really amazing is how she showed that rebellios spirit of NY, that suddenly turnes into the vibes of success, as it truly might happen in a city of the big opportunities. The show in total was an absolutely deliberate, confident work of a talented designer.
Ksusha: That was by the way one of that sudden discoveries you always get during the Riga Fashion Week. Tanti is a new brand, made by a huge fabric manufacturer. Fall-winter 2016 is only their’s second collection. Due to their decision to involve a new designer each season, I wasn’t really thrilled to see the collection at first. Because how about personal DNA of the brand or a constant style? But at the end I loved the outerwear so much, that became more tolerant to the philosophy in general. My absolute favorite is that red overalls.
Lesha: This show was a good option to get known the brand better. Unfortunatelly, I can’t support Ksusha in her impression this time. Don’t really liked the collection. What’s more, I still don’t appreciate the idea of a new designer each season. How can the customers be sure they will have something to return for the next time? May be, I just didn’t got the idea…
Ksusha: We are following this designer since the very first visit to Riga. You can even read our interview in this blog, but the clothes, in my opinion, can also tell a lot about her. Aristocratic, restrained and, if I’m allowed to say so, Nordic-cold. By the way, exactly the colors of the Nordic nature formed the palette of the fall-winter collection. I always valued, how Ule reminds about the author of the clothes in a tiny details. While she is facing all that dress-code restrictions (her clothes are mostly beloved by the first ladies), she still manages to involve art – in an unexpected zip-line on the back, in an unusual pockets or an asymmetric neckline.
Lesha: Estonian brand Pohjanheimo is all about the highest quality for me. Definite lines, clean colors and timeless style. The fall-winter collection is probably not the best, I’ve seen, but the emotions will anyway remain the same.
Ksusha: Somehow Lithuanian guests do always show really outstanding collections. This in particular I didn’t understood from the very begining, but after watching the models backs realized, that it’s probably the best way to look at her clothes. Being confident about how you look from the behind is always a good idea, isn’t it? My personal favorite – men’s waffel coat. Men’s clothes, by the way, are definitely the strongest part of the brand.
Lesha: An interesting collection. I’m not an expert, but liked the variety of forms. That contrast between light dresses and heavy coats was really remarkable.
Lesha: Honestly, I do never expect too much from Natalija Jansone. And that is not because of her talent (she has one, trust me!), it’s just that I’m not quite a fan of her style. But despite that, I can always find some possitive moments: quality clothes, neutral colors, seasona; approach and that special confidence. That is why her brand is one of the local leaders for many years so far.
Ksusha: As Lesha had already mentioned, Jansone is one of the Latvian leaders in fashion. By the way, if I’m not mistaken, the model from an official poster of this seasons’ fashion week was wearing her clothes. Though I’m also very neutral about this brand, some clothes this time really stood out. For example, that complicated jacket, that reminded me of a card deck. And I also liked that unusual metalic fabric she used in some pieces. Unfortunately, I didn’t understant what exactly it was. Looked futuristic!:)
Photos by: Alexey Trojan Spodyneyko (#TSJproduction).